I'm sorry for being late, ZZ and the more the merrier Abraham (those are incredible photos btw.)
Here goes. I visited Ladakh in October 2013 while on holiday in India (Ladakh itself wasn't the holiday, I was visiting family and with a few friends over dinner, we decided we'd just go to Ladakh!). In hindsight that was a rather silly thing to do because so much could have gone wrong and made our entire trip unpleasant. The nature of the place demands advanced planning, and I mean 3-6 months in advance.
Location: Ladakh, J&K - comprising Leh town, Lamayuru, Hemis, Thiksey, Nubra Valley, Tso Pangong and Tso Moriri.
History: I am blissfully unaware of what went on in the region pre-partition but I know that Ladakh was and is still a bone of contention between the Indian, Pakistani and Chinese governments. Pakistan itself invaded Ladakh and occupied a large part of the Zanskar and Kargil regions, which led to what we now famously know as the Kargil War. India won the war and have recovered most of the land. China on the north-eastern side of the district have occupied some portions too.
Topology: Ladakh is a weirdly beautiful place. I am no geologist but this was something else. Most of the mountains to me resembled the surface of the moon as shown to me by cartoons, magazines and pictures on the internet. You have to be there to believe it. Sample this:
The beauty of it all is that Ladakh is a desert in essence. At about 4,000m above sea level.
Leh:Leh is a tiny city with a very vibrant culture. It is inclusive, highly hospitable and very very beautiful in itself. It serves as the base for any traveler to Ladakh, cell phone towers find their last point of reception here, taxis/buses/vans to take you around Ladakh itself can be hired here. The food is sensational too.
Getting there:
The airport in Leh is operated by the army and is a base. So private/commuter airlines can fly/out in only before noon. Our flight from Delhi was delayed by an hour which meant it had to be cancelled. So prepare to be frustrated. In Leh, you would want to hire a taxi/cab for the rest of your service. These are generally SUVs, built for the rough roads (or the lack of them). Your ascent to Leh would be around 4000m and the oxygen here is well short of what you are used to. You would be asked to be in the confines of your room and relax for the first couple of days. We felt our hearts pounding heavily on our flight up 3 sets of stairs to our hotel rooms.
Our itinerary was itself for 10 days and covered a large part of Ladakh. Following are some of the highlights.
Monasteries:
Ladakh has a thriving Buddhist culture and numerous monasteries which are the embodiment of calm. You have to hear the silence to really understand what goes in there. I spent a lot of time in these monasteries and never wanted to come back. Major monasteries in Ladakh - Lamayuru, Thiksey, Hemis, Spiti, Lahul, Shanti Stupa off the top of my head.
This is such a rad setting:
Water Bodies:
Ladakh has numerous lakes, some virtually untouched by civilization and many in the process of being ruined by boisterous tourists. Pangong is the most famous lake, a throbbing tourist destination largely thanks to the Bollywood movie 3 Idiots, who shot their climax sequence here.
Here's Pangong:
But the lake that most captured my imagination was the Moriri. This is a rather obscure lake that nobody really visits because 1) Pangong is where everyone goes and 2) it's 250km from Leh, which might sound reasonable on normal road conditions but the final 50km stretch to reach this lake was off the road. This is nearly in Tibet, and apparently around 70% of the lake is in Tibet. It's become a landlocked lake over the years, which has rendered the water saline.
The major beauty of this place that absolutely made me fall in love with it was the bareness, the remoteness of the whole thing. We were to be put up in the tiniest of villages you could imagine called Korzok, which had one lodge, with no electricity or running water. It had one thatched breakfast joint, where a liter of milk was Rs. 50 (it's 20 in mainland India in comparison). The nighttime temperature was approaching -10c and there was no heat. We slept huddled in one bed in our winter wear, I kid you not
I'll let the pictures speak to you with no further ado.
30 km from Moriri, we saw this and thought we reached the place. Turns out it was just a pond! If this was only a pond...
This is one of my favourite pictures. The falling clouds, clear skies and the shadow of our lonely car.
We thought we'd take a walk out after dinner to this sight. Talk about a lack of pollution. Never seen a clearer sky in my lifetime. I wanted to die then and there!
And finally the lake. It felt like we had completed an expedition to the Arctic circle, a climb up Everest. This was our little expedition, and to this day I am unable to articulate it well
That's all of us
It's an incredible place not just for its beauty but the sheer closeness to what I believe is God. It's got it all- beauty, peace, love, and an immensely hospitable local populace. I am agnostic but I truly wanted to believe.
Apologies for the typos.
If you would like to organize a trip to Ladakh feel free to PM me [/size]