Topic: Car & mechanics advice thread

[wampa1]

Here's one, my 2000 Honda Civic has a dodgy brake pedal.  I mean, it works fine and is safe and the car stops on a dime every time but it feels like there is hardly any pressure behind it and you have to press it down quite far.  Lines have been bed umpteen times and it's had two new master cylinders and a new valve compensator but still has the problem : /

[WooltonDave]

Here's one, my 2000 Honda Civic has a dodgy brake pedal.  I mean, it works fine and is safe and the car stops on a dime every time but it feels like there is hardly any pressure behind it and you have to press it down quite far.  Lines have been bed umpteen times and it's had two new master cylinders and a new valve compensator but still has the problem : /

The footwell is too far away. Bring it closer and the peddle won't go down so far.

[surfer. Fuck you generator.]

Here's one, my 2000 Honda Civic has a dodgy brake pedal.  I mean, it works fine and is safe and the car stops on a dime every time but it feels like there is hardly any pressure behind it and you have to press it down quite far.  Lines have been bed umpteen times and it's had two new master cylinders and a new valve compensator but still has the problem : /

I had this problem with one of my cars, an old Toyota E60. it's usually the master cylinder. Mine was fairly easy to sort out as the car was bastardised to the high heavens by that point and worked just fine with a new master cylinder salvaged off another car. It's interesting that you've changed that twice and the problem is still there. what is your mechanic saying? If it's the same guy who's bled your breaks then changed the cylinders twice without fixing it, time for a new mechanic mate.

[wampa1]

Well at Christmas, it was at the point that the brakes were almost none existent and you had to press it right to the floor to get it to stop.  Obviously, that's not safe so I took it in and the MC was replaced and that fixed it.  Then they went again a few months later and the MC was replaced again and now they are 'okay' but not at the standard I want them to be and certainly nowhere near what they were before Christmas.

My mechanic is a good guy and fixed the it the second time for free.  I am toying with the idea of taking to another garage if they go completely but I'm hoping they last until the next MOT which, if it passes, I'd be more willing to spend a bit to fix them whereas if it fails I may scrap it (depending on what it fails on).

[Skidder.]

Have you tried plugging it in?

[wampa1]

Yeah, turned it off and on again as well.

[anfieldpurch]

Just to add to my original post but I've noticed now that it decreases just by me pressing the brake and coming to a stop, even if i don't park on a slope. For instance it said 400 miles left but after 60 mile trip the counter read 339. But when I completely stopped it dropped to 329 then went I turned the ignition on next time it was 319. The next 30 mile journey took it to 289 but then after stopping, it dropped to 269.

Any ideas because it didn't used to do this?

[BCCC]

 

[bigbonedrawky]

Well at Christmas, it was at the point that the brakes were almost none existent and you had to press it right to the floor to get it to stop.  Obviously, that's not safe so I took it in and the MC was replaced and that fixed it.  Then they went again a few months later and the MC was replaced again and now they are 'okay' but not at the standard I want them to be and certainly nowhere near what they were before Christmas.

My mechanic is a good guy and fixed the it the second time for free.  I am toying with the idea of taking to another garage if they go completely but I'm hoping they last until the next MOT which, if it passes, I'd be more willing to spend a bit to fix them whereas if it fails I may scrap it (depending on what it fails on).

With the Ignition OFF Pump your brake pedal until it cant be pushed any further, (it should now be at the top) if it isn't... change your mechanic
Keep your foot on the pedal and turn the ignition on, the pedal should now go down smoothly, if it doesn't... change your mechanic
Fixing it a second time "for free" could mean he knows he didn't fix it correctly in the first place or he is indeed a good guy and its the salvaged parts that are at fault. (maybe a inherent design fault) 

[DJBrenton]

When you park on the slope face the car the other way and the mileage will go up instead of down. Happy days!

So if you always drive uphill you'll never run out of petrol? Awesome!

[Paullfc95]

The other day my car key snapped completely into 2. It's not a remote key, but it's got a chip inside.

I went to Timpsons and they've quoted me £95 to get a new key, but surely you can get cheaper than that with it not being a remote car key. The car is a 2001 Corsa.

Just wondering has anybody had any similar experiences and how much you paid/where you got the new one from?

[Motty]

The other day my car key snapped completely into 2. It's not a remote key, but it's got a chip inside.

I went to Timpsons and they've quoted me £95 to get a new key, but surely you can get cheaper than that with it not being a remote car key. The car is a 2001 Corsa.

Just wondering has anybody had any similar experiences and how much you paid/where you got the new one from?

Weirdly I only went into a Citroen garage yesterday to inquire about a new key for my 2004 van which is also not a remote key.

£64 I was quoted.

[rob1966]

Even though its not a remote, because the chip is required to start the car, the cost will include programming the key to work with the ignition. You could try a Corsa forum and see if there is any way of transferring your old chip to a new key so that you only need to pay for the key cutting.

[Seagull Dave]

I did this and it ended up being cheaper to get a whole new ignition and lockset from a scrappy cost me £15. Same car as yours too

[SamAteTheRedAcid]

Fucking hell, some crap advice here. Have you not tried putting bonjella on it

[Paullfc95]

Sorted it today,went to an independent locksmith, they took the chip out of the old key and put it in a new case then cut a new key.

All for the price of just £15 

[Motty]

Sorted it today,went to an independent locksmith, they took the chip out of the old key and put it in a new case then cut a new key.

All for the price of just £15 

Sounds good ,what do you mean by independent locksmith ? Just a privately run key cutting shop like a Timson's I'm thinking.

[Narwin Dunez]

Timsons are fucking shite.

Took my work shoes for repair and now I've got staples stabbing me in the heel.

Glad you got sorted.

[Paullfc95]

Sounds good ,what do you mean by independent locksmith ? Just a privately run key cutting shop like a Timson's I'm thinking.

Just a one off privately run shop, Timpsons is a chain

[Motty]

Just a one off privately run shop, Timpsons is a chain

Ok sound I'm going to try a local one I seen the other day.

[Phil_88]

right so passed my driving test last week, went out bought a used car (02 Peugeot 206) found out the clutch was worn had a terrible judder in 1st and reverse so booked it in to be replaced, went in yesterday and got it back today, went in it today first time ive drove it, noticed its still got a judder when finding the biting point (usually in my instructors car Id find the bite and just roll forward using the clutch and accelerate off) now if I try and do it in this theres a terrible judder, spoke to the mechanic who fixed it and he reckons the old clutch stretched the clutch cable and the new clutch needs to get used to it, im finding it stressfull to drive it atm having never driven on my own before then having this juddering etc (already stalled it a few times lol and only had it bk a few hours), should I take it back to the mechanic or is it just me?

[Phil M]

Was it like that when you test drove it?

[CraigDS]

What car did your driving instructor have?

All cars will have different bite points, and some won't be able to move forward much just off releasing the clutch alone - the judder could well be the car starting to stall.

[Phil_88]

Was it like that when you test drove it?

when I bought it or after clutch replacement? after the new clutch it was like it but the mechanic told me to give it time but dosent seem right to me but part of me is thinking is it because ive gone from a newer 12 plate instructors car to an older car

[Phil_88]

What car did your driving instructor have?

All cars will have different bite points, and some won't be able to move forward much just off releasing the clutch alone - the judder could well be the car starting to stall.

he had a 12 plate ford focus

[CraigDS]

Ask someone who you know who has driven a few different manual cars to have a quick go and see what they think. I've driven some which will go a decent speed just off the clutch control in first, where as others which will hardly move and stall (judder first) if you don't put accelerator on.

The car is 13 years old so it'll be massively different to a newer car.

[Phil M]

Doesn't sound normal.

I'm no mechanic but if the cable was stretched then that should have been replaced aswell
unless I've misread your post.

I'd get a quick second opinion on it, have a different mechanic inspect it and if possible, drive it to see for themselves. If they agree with the original fitter's diagnosis fair enough but it sounds dodgy to me.

And getting on the road for the first time you don't want to be taking chances with a pedal you're going to be using constantly mate.

[Phil_88]

Ask someone who you know who has driven a few different manual cars to have a quick go and see what they think. I've driven some which will go a decent speed just off the clutch control in first, where as others which will hardly move and stall (judder first) if you don't put accelerator on.

The car is 13 years old so it'll be massively different to a newer car.

yeah could just be me, first time ive drove it was picking it up from garage today, so think its best if I just go somewere quiet and get used to it, think I might be treating it like the instructors car and that could be why, just wondered if anyone else had any trouble like it, will get someone else to try it tho to make sure

[Phil_88]

Doesn't sound normal.

I'm no mechanic but if the cable was stretched then that should have been replaced aswell
unless I've misread your post.

I'd get a quick second opinion on it, have a different mechanic inspect it and if possible, drive it to see for themselves. If they agree with the original fitter's diagnosis fair enough but it sounds dodgy to me.

And getting on the road for the first time you don't want to be taking chances with a pedal you're going to be using constantly mate.

yeah my next door neighbour happens to be a mechanic too so will get him to have a look tomorrow just wondered if anyone else had experienced it, obviously me being a new driver was kinda thinking it might just be me lol

[CHOPPER]

Have you taken the handbrake off?

[Phil_88]

Have you taken the handbrake off?

yeah

[CHOPPER]

yeah

I'm out then fella.

I'd ask a grown up now if I was you.

[L666KOP]

he had a 12 plate ford focus

Was it diesel ?

If it was then it will have a Dual mass Flywheel, this will iron out judder, especially if you are hesitant.

An older petrol car will have a solid flywheel, if you are consciously 'looking' for the bite point your leg will get the yips and the clutch plate will vibrate against the flywheel.

Does it judder in every gear, or just when you're setting off in first ?

[wampa1]

Sounds like you're being a bit unsure with your feet.  Once you get the feel for the car and where the biting point is I'm sure it'll be fine.

[outlaw_nas]

Maybe mechanic has put in a cheap clutch in.

[RacerX34]

right so passed my driving test last week, went out bought a used car (02 Peugeot 206) found out the clutch was worn had a terrible judder in 1st and reverse so booked it in to be replaced, went in yesterday and got it back today, went in it today first time ive drove it, noticed its still got a judder when finding the biting point (usually in my instructors car Id find the bite and just roll forward using the clutch and accelerate off) now if I try and do it in this theres a terrible judder, spoke to the mechanic who fixed it and he reckons the old clutch stretched the clutch cable and the new clutch needs to get used to it, im finding it stressfull to drive it atm having never driven on my own before then having this juddering etc (already stalled it a few times lol and only had it bk a few hours), should I take it back to the mechanic or is it just me?

Sounds like your mechanic is talking bollox.
Stretched the cable? He either fixed the problem or he didn't.
The new clutch won't "get used to it".
The pads will wear, but if the problem is the cable replace the cable.

[rob1966]

Sounds to me like its your technique, if you let the clutch up and try to drive away without accelerator, then on a lot of cars you're going to get just what you describe as the revs are dropping too much and the car is actually trying to stall, try it with some revs rather than relying on the engine idle speed and see if it improves.

I've been driving 30 years and I'm mainly used to superbikes and Scania trucks these days, the wife has an Astra and quite a lot of times I can get that to judder when pulling away if I'm not giving it enough revs to move off, thats happened from when the car was first bought and was only a year old.

[RacerX34]

Sounds to me like its your technique, if you let the clutch up and try to drive away without accelerator, then on a lot of cars you're going to get just what you describe as the revs are dropping too much and the car is actually trying to stall, try it with some revs rather than relying on the engine idle speed and see if it improves.

I've been driving 30 years and I'm mainly used to superbikes and Scania trucks these days, the wife has an Astra and quite a lot of times I can get that to judder when pulling away if I'm not giving it enough revs to move off, thats happened from when the car was first bought and was only a year old.

There's a point too.
I had a 106 and a 307, and have an Expert van now.
Not the smoothest pulling away without a touch of throttle.

[Phil_88]

Thanks for the replies I'll give it a week or so get some practice in using it and see if was just me which it probably is if not I'll pop it be down to the garage.

Was it diesel ?

If it was then it will have a Dual mass Flywheel, this will iron out judder, especially if you are hesitant.

An older petrol car will have a solid flywheel, if you are consciously 'looking' for the bite point your leg will get the yips and the clutch plate will vibrate against the flywheel.

Does it judder in every gear, or just when you're setting off in first ?

Just first and reverse once it's going the gear changes are fine

There's a point too.
I had a 106 and a 307, and have an Expert van now.
Not the smoothest pulling away without a touch of throttle.

I'll get some practice in tomorrow putting more revs instead of trying to work from the clutch maybe I'm just treating it like the instructors car and that might be the problem cheers again

[Phil_88]

took it back today as its been as bad as it was when I got it back, and the mechanic thinks it might be a faulty clutch so hes going to fit another for me over the weekend