Topic: The Home Improvement Thread

[L8Craig]

Why don't you get the upvc resprayed , had mine done two months ago from White upvc to anthracite grey , look brilliant and a bay and six windows was £800 save replacing .

Not bad that £800 i’ll Message you in the future if no other priorities happen to climb above it

[owens_2k]

For an extension costing around £40k is it normal for the people undertaking it to ask for 50% up front, 25% when the extension and roof are up and 25% upon completion?

50% seems a bit high as an upfront payment but there is steelwork involved.

[gazzam1963]

For an extension costing around £40k is it normal for the people undertaking it to ask for 50% up front, 25% when the extension and roof are up and 25% upon completion?

50% seems a bit high as an upfront payment but there is steelwork involved.

To me that's well out sync with what I'd expect . I'd expect to pay regular staged payments fully agreed beforehand . You pay 20k upfront and that really should get you past roof stage . To me foundations , footings and drainage done and passed by building control around 6k , brick work and block to roof ( is it a double extension ) maybe 10k possibly more if bi folds are Inc or larger doors , then another payment of 6k once roof work is done then all the internal stuff at a staged agreed payment with a final payment of say 5k once all passed by building control .

I personally wouldn't pay anything upfront as there's no incentive to keep the job flowing and you really do run the risk of the builder not being very good with money ( I can vouch for this from some I've dealt with ) lots will still owe trades and accounts from previous jobs and YOUR cash can be used to fund that .

Getting it dug out , drains and foundations done is not a hugely expensive part , digger , concrete , drains and a bit of brickwork , skips  and that's it out the ground . Does the 40k Inc a kitchen fitted ?
And when you say steelwork is that just a load bearing rsj or a side steel structures too ?

[L8Craig]

I'd be a nervous wreck punting £20k up front. Seen a few stories where a building firm is a ltd company, closes up shop and that's your £20k gone.
God knows what ill do when I need an extension in the future.

[owens_2k]

To me that's well out sync with what I'd expect . I'd expect to pay regular staged payments fully agreed beforehand . You pay 20k upfront and that really should get you past roof stage . To me foundations , footings and drainage done and passed by building control around 6k , brick work and block to roof ( is it a double extension ) maybe 10k possibly more if bi folds are Inc or larger doors , then another payment of 6k once roof work is done then all the internal stuff at a staged agreed payment with a final payment of say 5k once all passed by building control .

I personally wouldn't pay anything upfront as there's no incentive to keep the job flowing and you really do run the risk of the builder not being very good with money ( I can vouch for this from some I've dealt with ) lots will still owe trades and accounts from previous jobs and YOUR cash can be used to fund that .

Getting it dug out , drains and foundations done is not a hugely expensive part , digger , concrete , drains and a bit of brickwork , skips  and that's it out the ground . Does the 40k Inc a kitchen fitted ?
And when you say steelwork is that just a load bearing rsj or a side steel structures too ?

£40k doesnt include the kitchen, no. Im getting top end bi folds for around £6k alone  . Existing structure needs demolishing including removal of boiler   We are knocking the outside wall down so its going to be one big open space. steelwork wille to support that.

The builder in question is a friend of a friend and ive seen the extension he did for them and was impressed.

[WhereAngelsPlay]

Never pay upfront,agree to pay for materials & work in stages but never pay upfront.


I bet he never pays his suppliers or workers upfront.

[Motty]

Anyone got underfloor heating? Going to get the electric type in the floor of the kitchen which we are having extended.

Was recently warned off getting an IKEA kitchen, especially if your house isn't a new build. Apparently all the units fit onto a rack that's screwed into the wall but because the old walls aren't exactly square it makes all your units look a mess.

This is not from experience, just what I've been told.

I fit ufh before I tile if you have any questions [emoji1303]

[Motty]

Why don't you get the upvc resprayed , had mine done two months ago from White upvc to anthracite grey , look brilliant and a bay and six windows was £800 save replacing .

White upvc sprayed grey won't have the grain in it the proper one would though.

For anyone thinking of getting a new kitchen, Howdens will give you cheap as fuck prices if they are having a slow month, they have to hit their quotas so will knock shit loads off rrp to get a deal done. I got mine for 10,000 when it should of been 14-15,000 ish. Only trick is knowing its a slow month, my cousins boyfriend was manager so told us about it, but if you try your luck and tell them you heard about this you never know [emoji1303]

[rob1966]

White upvc sprayed grey won't have the grain in it the proper one would though.

For anyone thinking of getting a new kitchen, Howdens will give you cheap as fuck prices if they are having a slow month, they have to hit their quotas so will knock shit loads off rrp to get a deal done. I got mine for 10,000 when it should of been 14-15,000 ish. Only trick is knowing its a slow month, my cousins boyfriend was manager so told us about it, but if you try your luck and tell them you heard about this you never know [emoji1303]

We got ours about 6 years ago from Howdens, paid just under £2k for what should have been a £7k kitchen. Our builder got 75% discount to open an account with them.

[gazzam1963]

White upvc sprayed grey won't have the grain in it the proper one would though.

to be honest Craig never even gave that a thought , I have aluminium bi-folds which are grey and smooth finish so never really expected anything else , the existing White didnt have grain either .

£40k doesnt include the kitchen, no. Im getting top end bi folds for around £6k alone  . Existing structure needs demolishing including removal of boiler   We are knocking the outside wall down so its going to be one big open space. steelwork wille to support that.

The builder in question is a friend of a friend and ive seen the extension he did for them and was impressed.

Recommendations are sometimes good to go with , I still wouldnt pay anything like 20k upfront as I don't see the need , he doesn't need anywhere near that to get it out the ground and up . The doors won't be needed until roof is on and you can pay specifically for the doors when ordered .

What's the size of the extension ? I remember doing mine  ( 2 years ago) which is about 5.5m x 3.5m and seeing online that a single storey should  cost around £1000 pwr sq meter . That was for the basics my extras were five segment Ali bi folds (around £5000) and two remote controlled velux windows (£1500) the steelwork was a bit more as the surveyor wanted one rsj to prop up the internal and external brickwork
As its 5 metres wide but the steel itself was about £250 and the hire of the lifter for the day extra . What really surprised me how expensive the insulation for the pitched roof was , cost more than the internal and external blockwork.

[owens_2k]

I'd be a nervous wreck punting £20k up front. Seen a few stories where a building firm is a ltd company, closes up shop and that's your £20k gone.
God knows what ill do when I need an extension in the future.

Check your DM's, you!

[owens_2k]

to be honest Craig never even gave that a thought , I have aluminium bi-folds which are grey and smooth finish so never really expected anything else , the existing White didnt have grain either .

Recommendations are sometimes good to go with , I still wouldnt pay anything like 20k upfront as I don't see the need , he doesn't need anywhere near that to get it out the ground and up . The doors won't be needed until roof is on and you can pay specifically for the doors when ordered .

What's the size of the extension ? I remember doing mine  ( 2 years ago) which is about 5m x 3m and seeing online that a single storey should  cost around £1000 pwr sq meter . That was for the basics my extras were five segment Ali bi folds ( £5000) and two remote controlled velux windows (£1500) the steelwork was a bit more as the surveyor wanted one rsj to prop up the internal and external brickwork
As its 5 metres wide but the steel itself was about £250 and the hire of the lifter for the day extra . What really surprised me how expensive the insulation for the pitched roof was , cost more than the internal and external blockwork.

It's 3.5m x 7m. We arent getting that much 'extra' space though because an existing structure needs to be knocked down. Probably only 3.5m x 3.5m 'extra' room.

[gazzam1963]

It's 3.5m x 7m. We arent getting that much 'extra' space though because an existing structure needs to be knocked down. Probably only 3.5m x 3.5m 'extra' room.

Did you get other quotes ? 40 k seems on the high side even considering bi folds

[Motty]

We got ours about 6 years ago from Howdens, paid just under £2k for what should have been a £7k kitchen. Our builder got 75% discount to open an account with them.

Was probably a slow month for them to give that much discount, if they gave 75% off to everyone who opened a account they would be out of business [emoji23] the 30 odd % they gave me off is roughly what a builder/joiner who buys a lot of kitchens gets according to one's I asked. All I got for opening my account was a free impact driver [emoji23]

[Motty]

to be honest Craig never even gave that a thought , I have aluminium bi-folds which are grey and smooth finish so never really expected anything else , the existing White didnt have grain either .

Recommendations are sometimes good to go with , I still wouldnt pay anything like 20k upfront as I don't see the need , he doesn't need anywhere near that to get it out the ground and up . The doors won't be needed until roof is on and you can pay specifically for the doors when ordered .

What's the size of the extension ? I remember doing mine  ( 2 years ago) which is about 5m x 3m and seeing online that a single storey should  cost around £1000 pwr sq meter . That was for the basics my extras were five segment Ali bi folds ( £5000) and two remote controlled velux windows (£1500) the steelwork was a bit more as the surveyor wanted one rsj to prop up the internal and external brickwork
As its 5 metres wide but the steel itself was about £250 and the hire of the lifter for the day extra . What really surprised me how expensive the insulation for the pitched roof was , cost more than the internal and external blockwork.

If you have the smooth finish bi-folds then no grain is perfect for you then [emoji108]

[owens_2k]

Has anyone got underfloor heating? Looking whether to get electric or water based system. Water based systems are much more expensive than electric as electric seems to have high running costs. Some of my research suggests that the electric systems are now super efficient though so bills don't go through the roof. Anyone got any experience of underfloor heating?

[harryc]

Has anyone got underfloor heating? Looking whether to get electric or water based system. Water based systems are much more expensive than electric as electric seems to have high running costs. Some of my research suggests that the electric systems are now super efficient though so bills don't go through the roof. Anyone got any experience of underfloor heating?

We have electric underfloor heating in the kitchen 20’ x 18’.

Put it in myself over 10 years ago, think it was about £1500 at the time, I believe it is more expensive to run but can’t comment by how much.

Only thing is you need to put in ceramic tiles or engineered wood over it, real wood and laminated will warp.

Not had any issues apart from the thermostat going wonky and also make sure you get a sparky to wire into the mains as it will need its own fuse.

[owens_2k]

We have electric underfloor heating in the kitchen 20’ x 18’.

Put it in myself over 10 years ago, think it was about £1500 at the time, I believe it is more expensive to run but can’t comment by how much.

Only thing is you need to put in ceramic tiles or engineered wood over it, real wood and laminated will warp.

Not had any issues apart from the thermostat going wonky and also make sure you get a sparky to wire into the mains as it will need its own fuse.

I've heard horror stories of peoples bills being 6x larger when using the electric systems!

[gazzam1963]

I've heard horror stories of peoples bills being 6x larger when using the electric systems!

What are all your alternatives to underfloor heating ?

[Motty]

Mistakes people make with Electric ufh is they don't put insulation boards down first which send all the heat upwards. If they shove the matting down on concrete or wood then the heat goes up And down so costs you twice as much to run.

[.adam]

Any builders on RAWK?

Rear extension - full width of house. 6.3m x 3m.

Looking at vaulted roof with welsh slate tiles. Two velux windows. 3.5m aluminium bifold doors.

Ten spots, three power points.

One radiator.

Floor will be concrete with floorboards on top (probably sat on batons).

Does around £30-£35k all in sound about right?

[gazzam1963]

Any builders on RAWK?

Rear extension - full width of house. 6.3m x 3m.

Looking at vaulted roof with welsh slate tiles. Two velux windows. 3.5m aluminium bifold doors.

Ten spots, three power points.

One radiator.

Floor will be concrete with floorboards on top (probably sat on batons).

Does around £30-£35k all in sound about right?

Are you getting a builder in to do it and is it a kitchen one with drainage required or just extra living space
I done my own about two years ago and basically had help project managing it as my dad dealt with the council surveyor . Id read using £1000 per sq metre for a single story so mine was 5.5 m x 3.5 m so expected to spend about 18k which I done possibly less not Inc the extras as in 5 metre Ali bi folds and two velux remote control windows which were 4.5 k and 1.4 k respectively .

[.adam]

Are you getting a builder in to do it and is it a kitchen one with drainage required or just extra living space
I done my own about two years ago and basically had help project managing it as my dad dealt with the council surveyor . Id read using £1000 per sq metre for a single story so mine was 5.5 m x 3.5 m so expected to spend about 18k which I done possibly less not Inc the extras as in 5 metre Ali bi folds and two velux remote control windows which were 4.5 k and 1.4 k respectively .

Just extra living space. No drainage to worry about - just guttering which will join main drainpipe.

I've seen the £1,000 per sq/m but think that is quite an old guide.

I live in a relatively desirable area and I think builders basically bung extra on the price because of where I am.

[owens_2k]

Had planning permission refused for my extension as the neighbours have objected. They say it will take light away from their conservatory. Absolutely fuming.

Apparently I can get a big window fitted in order to get it to pass but really did not want one there. Anyone know how successful appeals are?

[harrylfc]

We’ve just had a 4.5mx3.5m single storey extension off the back of house done,lightweight aluminium sloping roof,all electrics,plastering,tv points,16k all in ... really happy with that

[CHOPPER]

Had planning permission refused for my extension as the neighbours have objected. They say it will take light away from their conservatory. Absolutely fuming.

Apparently I can get a big window fitted in order to get it to pass but really did not want one there. Anyone know how successful appeals are?

Option 1: Speak to your architect and see what the points for refusal are and see if you can re-draft different plans. Work with the council. Just because a neighbour says no, doesn't mean nothing happens. This would make a decision open to non structural reasons and more potentially around personal/fuedal.

Option 2: Twat fuck out of your neighbour

[owens_2k]

I’d like to do option two to be honest!!

Thing is we are knocking down an existing structure which protrudes out of half of the house and extending out level to where that extended to. For some reason the council don’t count the existing structure as the end of the house (I’m pretty sure it’s original) so my extension according to them is extending 3.3m when in fact it’s just level with what was there.

If I could get the planners to agree that I’m not changing the extent of the house in any way then I wouldn’t even need permission.


[You may have an iPhone but you are still using the free version of Tapatalk and spamming us with that knowledge]

[owens_2k]

Sorted it with the neighbours!

[gazzam1963]

Glad your sorted , though knocking 30cm off would have meant you didn't need permission irrespective of what was there .

[royhendo]

Hello all - so it turns out Nitromors is no longer any use as a varnish and paint stripper. An ingredient has been removed and it’s now kinda wallpaper paste in the same tin.

I’m stripping a dresser so could use some recommendations for a good gel paint or varnish stripping product... anyone got any good uns?

[The Gulleysucker]

Hello all - so it turns out Nitromors is no longer any use as a varnish and paint stripper. An ingredient has been removed and it’s now kinda wallpaper paste in the same tin.

I’m stripping a dresser so could use some recommendations for a good gel paint or varnish stripping product... anyone got any good uns?

Roy, I've always tended to use a scraper on flat wooden surfaces to get most of the paint off and then for any paint remaining in the grains, carefully apply some cellulose 'brushing' thinners with a fine brush to soften it and then pick it out with a pin or sharp point. Depending on the depth of the wood grain, sometimes a light sand can also remove the remains. It's all fiddly but ultimately can be quite satisfying.

If you're simply going to repaint and not varnish, then a hot air gun or carefully applied blowtorch can work well and will lift most paints from the surface of the wood sufficient for you to then just lightly sand it all smooth and repaint, but take care if it's layers of old paints as they may contain lead which you may then be breathing in.

Either takes a while but it's preferable to using the wash it all over in industrial strength stuff as that can soak the wood surface and I've found that depending on the wood, the wood surface is never quite the same after using a chemical stripper, some modern non oil or solvent based varnishes subsequently refusing to the key on the wood due to remains of the stripper chemicals still in the grain.

Failing that, if you've got a mate in the trade, you can still get Paramose which will take most stuff off ( including your skin!) or make up your own caustic soda mix and paint it on though that needs to be kept warm to be effective, but again pretty dangerous stuff to be using really these days.

The most effective is probably Dichloromethane but it has been linked to cancer and is generally an unpleasant substance to be playing with so I wouldn't recommend it at all unless you've got full respiratory gear and proper environmental disposal facilities.
 

[John C]

Hello all - so it turns out Nitromors is no longer any use as a varnish and paint stripper. An ingredient has been removed and it’s now kinda wallpaper paste in the same tin.

I’m stripping a dresser so could use some recommendations for a good gel paint or varnish stripping product... anyone got any good uns?

Is it painted or varnished? If varnished or stained invest in an electric sander for about £18 mate, it will save you a lot of trouble.

[royhendo]

Ta lads - it’s stained/varnished - I don’t think the picture is very clear but you, erm, get the picture. It’s kind of lacquered varnish - it used to be a medical slide cabinet.

We’re gonna eventually make it raw pine if we can but if it looks shit, we’ll paint it. I just went looking for Nitromors but then got the story that it doesn’t work any more.

A sander could do it but there are a few finicky bits of handle and label holder hardware so that’s why I thought a solvent would do it... if the hardware comes off though I’ll try and sand maybe eh?

[John C]

Ta lads - it’s stained/varnished - I don’t think the picture is very clear but you, erm, get the picture. It’s kind of lacquered varnish - it used to be a medical slide cabinet.

We’re gonna eventually make it raw pine if we can but if it looks shit, we’ll paint it. I just went looking for Nitromors but then got the story that it doesn’t work any more.

A sander could do it but there are a few finicky bits of handle and label holder hardware so that’s why I thought a solvent would do it... if the hardware comes off though I’ll try and sand maybe eh?

That will come up a treat with one of these mate, I did a similar job a couple of years ago. Take your time, don't rush it. If you do re-varnish it have a long think about what you want. A light oak is nice.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Machine-Collection-Multi-Sander-Sandpaper-Accessories/dp/B07GXB8X4R/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1549187320&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=electric+sander&psc=1

[Red Raw]

Hello all - so it turns out Nitromors is no longer any use as a varnish and paint stripper. An ingredient has been removed and it’s now kinda wallpaper paste in the same tin.

I’m stripping a dresser so could use some recommendations for a good gel paint or varnish stripping product... anyone got any good uns?

I hate the dust and ballache of sanding/griding and have had little faith in chemical strippers but I had to strip a couple of oil drums for a BBQ I was making.  I had to go back to bare metal because they were going to be painted with a heat resistant paint. 

Just for the hell of it I gave this cheap stuff from Screwfix a go and it was brilliant - slapped it on, left it for half an hour or so and a wire brush shifted about 80% of the paint.  A second application and the job was done.  I think it comes down to how well-matched the chemicals in the paint/stripper are and I may have been lucky, but for a fiver it may be worth trying it on the back of a drawer.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-paint-varnish-stripper-500ml/17091

[royhendo]

Great gents, that’s massively helpful. I think I’ll get a sander and use the chemical option only if the hardware proves tricky to remove... but I can’t see it being too bad. The surfaces are mostly flat.

What grade of paper do you go with John? Coarse to fine presumably?

[John C]

Yep mate, fine, it will clog quickly so order extra when you buy the sander. You can get them from B&Q if you have one or something similar up there. Use it gently at first so you don't mark it. Also just use sandpaper for the large flat areas, the sander will get in difficult places and tidy it nicely.

[royhendo]

Brilliant! Ta again mate

[royhendo]

Working well lads! £15 sander from B&Q. Just gotta do the finicky bits now...

[rob1966]

Wish it would warm up, I've got to demolish a shed, build a base for the new one, move the new one from where it is on the decking, then dismantle the decking and then break up an 8ft by 12ft concrete base so we can have a new patio laid. She wants it all done ASAP.