Topic: Car & mechanics advice thread

[Pistolero]

Glad I put my bins on btw....originally posted this in the Cat Advice Thread 

[rob1966]

Skoda Yeti - n/s doors (front and rear) wont open, via central locking or internal handles...mirror / windows also not working. The problem - I'm 99% certain - is a broken wire(s) in the wiring loom that goes into the door via the A Pillar - seems to be an issue on VW group vehicles...but I cant get to the loom cos I cant open the door! ....has anyone had a similar issue on any VW group car and found a way around it?.....

Does the NSF door not have a plastic cover over the keyhole on the handle? Also, in case its not the loom, bang the door near the handle while pressing unlock, this works on a lot of Skodas.

Odd that the doors wont open from the inside, we had this happen on the Astra where the loom snapped and it'd still open from the inside. Worse case scenario is cutting holes in the door cards to get access to the locks.

[reddebs]

Taking Paul to work this morning and the car suddenly has this deep humming noise and a bit of vibration from the back.  It righted itself after a minute or two and was fine then it did the same again on the home journey.

Any ideas?

[Barneylfc∗]

Taking Paul to work this morning and the car suddenly has this deep humming noise and a bit of vibration from the back.  It righted itself after a minute or two and was fine then it did the same again on the home journey.

Any ideas?

Wheel bearings maybe?

[paulrazor]

exhaust possibly?

I would get it checked out anyway

[reddebs]

Wheel bearings maybe?

Nah didn't sound like bearings mate.

exhaust possibly?

I would get it checked out anyway

Could be but would that cause a bit of vibration?

I've booked it in for Saturday anyway, just hope it's not the differentials on the rear axil!

[paulrazor]

It is just guess work I suppose

You are booked in anyway, hopefully not a major issue

[rob1966]

Taking Paul to work this morning and the car suddenly has this deep humming noise and a bit of vibration from the back.  It righted itself after a minute or two and was fine then it did the same again on the home journey.

Any ideas?

Noises are so hard to diagnose without hearing them.

Take it for a run, a couple of miles and then put your hands near to the rear wheel and see if they are really hot, could be that you've got a sticking brake caliper, I had that with mine last year and that did similar.

[reddebs]

Noises are so hard to diagnose without hearing them.

Take it for a run, a couple of miles and then put your hands near to the rear wheel and see if they are really hot, could be that you've got a sticking brake caliper, I had that with mine last year and that did similar.

Just had all the brakes done Rob and some suspension work like ball joints and track rod ends.

The sound and feel is similar to driving on that shite pink concrete on the M56.

[CaseRed]

2017 Vauxhall Insignia is leaking coolant. Garage said it was likely the water pump and quoted around 750 to do the work. Does that sound about right?
We are in the South East.
Thanks for any advice

[rob1966]

Just had all the brakes done Rob and some suspension work like ball joints and track rod ends.

The sound and feel is similar to driving on that shite pink concrete on the M56.

Do the same route and if it happens again, check the tarmac, see if its rippled

2017 Vauxhall Insignia is leaking coolant. Garage said it was likely the water pump and quoted around 750 to do the work. Does that sound about right?
We are in the South East.
Thanks for any advice

That sounds really steep - I was quoted £350 on the wifes Astra to do the timing belt and that includes the water pump and pulleys. Is that a main dealer or a local? Try the Main Dealer and see what they quote

[reddebs]

Do the same route and if it happens again, check the tarmac, see if its rippled

I'll be going that way again later so I'll check.  Thinking about it, I heard it in both directions in around the same but not the exact spot so it could be that.

[reddebs]

Been out to pick Paul up with no issues this time.  Still taking it in on Saturday though.

Another thing.  I had a new cam belt done bang on 90k miles as per the owners manual but does that mean the new one will last another 90k or will it need changing before that?

Also how long do modern batteries normally last?  It's a big fuck off one not a bog standard one.

[rob1966]

Been out to pick Paul up with no issues this time.  Still taking it in on Saturday though.

Another thing.  I had a new cam belt done bang on 90k miles as per the owners manual but does that mean the new one will last another 90k or will it need changing before that?

Also how long do modern batteries normally last?  It's a big fuck off one not a bog standard one.

The new one should last 90k or 10 years, whichever comes first (I need to change the belt on the Wifes car this spring, its waaaaayyyy overdue age wise)

As for batteries, can depend on a lot of factors - mine takes a huge battery and I got about 5 years out of that before it died. I think modern batteries don't last anywhere near as long as older ones

[reddebs]

The new one should last 90k or 10 years, whichever comes first (I need to change the belt on the Wifes car this spring, its waaaaayyyy overdue age wise)

As for batteries, can depend on a lot of factors - mine takes a huge battery and I got about 5 years out of that before it died. I think modern batteries don't last anywhere near as long as older ones

Thanks Rob.  Yeah it's about 5yrs since we got ours so it's probably ready for a new one.  It was struggling to start earlier but it rarely gets a run these days without the heater, lights and radio on so it's not getting a charge up.

[rob1966]

Thanks Rob.  Yeah it's about 5yrs since we got ours so it's probably ready for a new one.  It was struggling to start earlier but it rarely gets a run these days without the heater, lights and radio on so it's not getting a charge up.

That's what killed the battery on the wifes car, my bikes were going through a battery a year until I bought an optimimate, I think the missus might have unplugged it this winter though

[reddebs]

That's what killed the battery on the wifes car, my bikes were going through a battery a year until I bought an optimimate, I think the missus might have unplugged it this winter though

I don't often drive in the dark since we moved but Paul working earlies and me doing lates means it's always dark and cold when the car's being used the most now.

[rob1966]

I don't often drive in the dark since we moved but Paul working earlies and me doing lates means it's always dark and cold when the car's being used the most now.

Get yourself a charger like this one from Halfords, it'll trickle charge the battery once fully charged

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/halfords-automatic-battery-charger---up-to-2.0l-329075.html

[reddebs]

Get yourself a charger like this one from Halfords, it'll trickle charge the battery once fully charged

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/halfords-automatic-battery-charger---up-to-2.0l-329075.html

Cheers for that mate we really could do with one 👍

[F-T-9]

So my mum put about 2 or 3 spoonfuls of screen wash into her brake fluid thinking it was the screen wash container and she has driven the car after too. Is this something to worry about, should I get the brake fluid flushed immediately? How much would that generally cost?

[Zizou]

Brake fluid doesn't like water at all, at least on bikes, and causes brake fade and lowers the boiling point, I don't know what difference a couple of spoonfuls would make, but if it was mine I'd have it changed.

I'd imagine water in the brake system would corrode it from the inside out, and cause grief longer term.

As for cost, I guess whatever the price of the brake fluid is, plus an hour of labour for a mechanic. £150?

[rob1966]

As Zizou says, yes the fluid needs changing. Its safe to drive so long as she's not a mad late braker. All brake fluid ends up with water in it, as its hygroscopic (absorbs water) so over time it naturally gets water in it, this is why you have to have it periodically changed, but the issue is as Zizou says that the fluid will cause corrosion from the inside.

Labour shouldn't be more than £75 p/h, brake fluid about £15 for a litre

[F-T-9]

Appreciate it fellas. Will definitely get it flushed tomorrow as it's better to be safe than sorry.

[Barneylfc∗]

Taking Paul to work this morning and the car suddenly has this deep humming noise and a bit of vibration from the back.  It righted itself after a minute or two and was fine then it did the same again on the home journey.

Any ideas?

Did you get this sorted?

[reddebs]

Did you get this sorted?

It hadn't done it again which made it impossible for the mechanic to know what it was as he needed to hear it himself.  He doubts it's anything serious as it would have been flagged up on the MOT in November.

That was yesterday morning and tonight it's done it again but not as obvious, loud or vibrating as before.

He did say to let him know if it did it again so I'll give him a ring tomorrow.

[paulrazor]

I remember about ten years ago I had an issue like this

Typical of course, the mechanic would sit in the car and come for a drive and hear nothing, I would drop him back to the garage and go home and the noise would start again

Something had broken off one of the discs on one of the back wheels

I cant quite remember what it waas but something broke off the wheel hub or disc, so maybe get the wheels removed and see if something has broke. For the record it wasnt a big repair bill, I got the part in a scrap yard good as new and a mate fixed it on (said mate has done mechanical work for the likes of BP and translink, not some cowboy)

As your mechanic said it was difficult to diagnose for him when nothing can be heard

[gamble]

Humming? Sounds like a wheel bearing.. does it get louder the faster you go?

[reddebs]

Humming? Sounds like a wheel bearing.. does it get louder the faster you go?

No not a bearing.

[reddebs]

Update on the car.

Had no issues or recurrence of noises all week so today set off for Yorkshire as planned. 

Everything fine until I got nearly to Stockbridge bypass and the mother of all rattling started.  The steering wheel was like trying to control a washing machine doing a fast spin cycle on an uneven floor!!

Didn't last long before everything went back to normal again so I did what Rob suggested when I got to my destination and checked the heat off the brakes.

3 were perfectly normal temps but the nearside front was red hot.

Not a shake driving around town all day and a lovely smooth fab drive home tonight but the mother fuckers going back to the grease monkey tomorrow.

[WhereAngelsPlay]

Language please.


















































(She pissed)

[reddebs]

It's the caliper.  The only one he's not replaced since October 😡

[Son of Spion]

It's the caliper.  The only one he's not replaced since October 😡

Your post last night gave that away. 🫤

That's happened to me twice. Once on my previous car (front, offside) and once on my current car (rear, near side).

I never had the juddering though. Just higher fuel consumption due to having to give it more gas. It felt like I'd lost a little power. Intermittent sticking rather than a seize up. Also, one night it was pissing down with rain and I had steam coming off my wheel. The hot wheel was a dead giveaway then.

Anyway, I hope you've got it sorted now.

[Dubred]

Don't know if anyone can give any advise on this......

My 2013 Merc diesel has a P2454 error code - Diesel Particulate Filter differential pressure sensor circuit low.

Is this a serious issue? Is it just a blocked DPF Filter that the garage can clear or is it something more serious that could cost lots?

I've run the car on the motorway that normally clears the DPF Filter, but it doesn't seem to be working

[reddebs]

Don't know if anyone can give any advise on this......

My 2013 Merc diesel has a P2454 error code - Diesel Particulate Filter differential pressure sensor circuit low.

Is this a serious issue? Is it just a blocked DPF Filter that the garage can clear or is it something more serious that could cost lots?

I've run the car on the motorway that normally clears the DPF Filter, but it doesn't seem to be working

I do about a half hour run in 3rd gear at 3k or above rpm but I add a pdf cleaner to the diesel before I do it.

It needs to be done at constantly high revs to burn off the soot from the filter.

[paulrazor]

I do about a half hour run in 3rd gear at 3k or above rpm but I add a pdf cleaner to the diesel before I do it.

It needs to be done at constantly high revs to burn off the soot from the filter.

yeah rev the shite out of it

STP is a good dpf cleaner (not sure it does much for a pdf )

You probably need a good 40 miles of motorway driving with it, happened me with an old avensis. Used the STP

revved it like mad and eventually after a lot of smoke there was one huge amount of it, cleared it up

[reddebs]

yeah rev the shite out of it

STP is a good dpf cleaner (not sure it does much for a pdf )

You probably need a good 40 miles of motorway driving with it, happened me with an old avensis. Used the STP

revved it like mad and eventually after a lot of smoke there was one huge amount of it, cleared it up

I use Forte which usually works first time.  Never tried Wynns but Redex is rubbish.

[paulrazor]

Redex is crap alright

I couldnt think of its name earlier but yeah it makes no difference what so ever

[Dubred]

Appreciate all the advice.

Unfortunately it looks like it could be some sensor attached to the DPF.  Tried all the other things and the DPF just isn't clearing itself. Has done in the past.

So trip to the garage beckons!

[bigbonedrawky]

Appreciate all the advice.

Unfortunately it looks like it could be some sensor attached to the DPF.  Tried all the other things and the DPF just isn't clearing itself. Has done in the past.

So trip to the garage beckons!

10 min job 2 hoses to disconnect from exhaust and the plug from ECU .DPF cost 80 -£100...Probably a Youtube vid showing how to do it .

[Pistolero]

Skoda Yeti - n/s doors (front and rear) wont open, via central locking or internal handles...mirror / windows also not working. The problem - I'm 99% certain - is a broken wire(s) in the wiring loom that goes into the door via the A Pillar - seems to be an issue on VW group vehicles...but I cant get to the loom cos I cant open the door! ....has anyone had a similar issue on any VW group car and found a way around it?.....

Sorted this eventually......absolute c*nt of a job....but job's now a goodun  ....if anyone with a Skoda / VW / Audi ever faces the same issue and is out of ideas, give me a shout