Author Topic: Rock climbing  (Read 10810 times)

Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Rock climbing
« on: April 24, 2013, 12:53:18 am »
Anyone else on here regularly rock climb?
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Offline BRdispatch05

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2013, 01:17:08 am »
Used to, mostly at a gym but went on a couple one and two night trips near Arkansas. Not that I was that great or anything :)

I know it's not that difficult to most rock climbers, but when I scaled a 5.7 in Arkansas it was an experience I'll never forget. The gym was always fun, but not comparable to the outdoors
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Offline adopted_scouser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2013, 01:50:21 am »
I used to go to awesome walls a fair bit, loved it.  After injuries and that though I barely have the upper body strength to do what I used to be able to do, and it just frustrates me so I give up.
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Offline BRdispatch05

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #3 on: July 9, 2013, 02:32:17 am »
:(

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68190

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12-year-old Italian climbing prodigy Tito Claudio Traversa has passed away after being hospitalized from a 50-foot groundfall. Grimper.com reports that Traversa was warming up on a 6b sport climb at the popular limestone venue of Orpierre, France, during a trip with his local climbing wall team, which included 10 kids and three adults.


Apparently, the quickdraws used to equip the route were slung incorrectly, which resulted in total failure and a groundfall. Details regarding the improper usage of the quickdraws are still vague, however, a rough translation of Grimper's report notes that the slings on the draws were attached to the carabiners incorrectly. The report indicates that the slings were improperly attached to the plastic/rubber device used to keep the carabiners from turning on the slings. Therefore these mechanisms were the only attachment between the sling and the carabiner and are apparently what failed as they are not intended to hold a fall.

Although four correctly strung quickdraws were on the route, these quickdraws were unfortunately placed too low to save Traversa. Traversa was airlifted to Grenoble, France, after the accident where he was hospitalised. He died today, after fighting for his life for three days.

Traversa was a young climbing phenomenon from Ivrea, Italy. He climbed his first 8b+ at the age of 10 by sending Sarsifal in Tetto di Sarre, Italy. Just two days before his accident, Traversa climbed his fourth 8b+ - Pablo diretta in Gravere, France.

We don't know exactly what happened in this case, but several years ago, and unrelated to this accident, we made a UKC video highlighting how easy it is to incorrectly clip some quickdraws. You can see this below.

R.I.P. Tito
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Offline DJBrenton

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #4 on: July 9, 2013, 06:56:58 am »
I cut my teeth on Froggat,Curbar and Baslow Edges back in the 70's before doing a fair bit all over Scotland and Snowdonia. Before that I had been a competitive weightlifter so had bouldering standard upper body strength but was a little too short for some HVS routes and above to be achievable without suicidal leaps. Wrecked an ankle playing ice hockey and never got full strength back in it so haven't done anything above V Diff since and nothing at all for around 10 years.
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Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #5 on: July 9, 2013, 11:16:39 am »
:(

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68190

R.I.P. Tito

Terrible tragedy, especially as it seems human error was the cause.
R.I.P.

anyway seems you are still interested in climbing if you are reading UKC
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Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #6 on: July 10, 2013, 11:28:21 am »
:(

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68190

R.I.P. Tito

Tito Traversa Accident - Quickdraw Information
by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor 09/Jul/2013

    12-Year-Old Tito Traversa Dies in Climbing Fall Jul-13


UKC News, 09 Jul 2013
© Grimper.com Last week we reported the tragic death of Tito Traversa, the young Italian sport climber, who fell to the ground after his quickdraws were incorrectly attached whilst he was climbing in France. There is now information on how his quickdraws were attached.

 

We illustrated the initial report with a UKC video from several years ago, that shows how easy it is to have an incorrectly threaded quickdraw if you use an open sling.

It has now come to light in a report on the French website Grimper that the quickdraws that Tito used were not open slings, but had still been similarly incorrectly threaded with an elastic 'keeper' - used to grip the carabiner and stop it moving around on the end of the sling.

You can see in the photo on the right that the sling is not clipped to the carabiner, it is just held by the elastic band. This is INCORRECT.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68201
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Offline Chakan

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2013, 11:30:35 am »
Been climbing on and off for around 10 years. Mostly in SA, Waterval boven, Chosspile and Local crags. Never been to rocklands though which is a stupid oversight by myself.


Offline AndyInVA

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2013, 03:21:24 pm »
I cut my teeth on Froggat,Curbar and Baslow Edges back in the 70's

wow, you and me both, although the 80s for me. I never really progressed past the Peak District though

havnt been in years, even on a gym wall

Offline Komic

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2013, 03:55:30 pm »
I just started climbing in a gym about a year ago, really want to go outside but lack of car makes this difficult and no equipment as well.

Offline DJBrenton

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2013, 04:48:25 pm »
I just started climbing in a gym about a year ago, really want to go outside but lack of car makes this difficult and no equipment as well.

Doug Scott started out with just a clothes line.
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Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2013, 01:53:32 pm »
I just started climbing in a gym about a year ago, really want to go outside but lack of car makes this difficult and no equipment as well.

Where are you based?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/

The lifts and partners section of this forum is very good.
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #12 on: July 11, 2013, 09:59:45 pm »
Been climbing for about 25 years now. Luckily spent years on the RAF Mountain Rescue teams so climbed pretty much all over the UK regularly, and a fair few 'free' international expeds. Off to Skye next week for a mates last munros. Looking to get some easy new routing in near to the Coruisk Hut.

Offline BRdispatch05

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2013, 06:36:03 pm »

anyway seems you are still interested in climbing if you are reading UKC

I still try to follow it, though not very closely. I follow Prana and the article showed up in their feed. I do miss going on climbing trips, I live close to the Missouri/Arkansas border so plenty of crag's and spots for bouldering. Just don't seem to have the time anymore, or equipment for that matter. Watched a documentary on Chris Sharma the other day, there's plenty of "competition" for him but the man is an absolute beast!
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Offline Chakan

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #14 on: August 3, 2013, 04:27:52 am »
Dunno if you guys are interested, there is a DWS comp in Utah at the moment. Sharma and a few friends.

http://www.psicocomp.com/watch.php

Offline "Stuart"

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #15 on: October 11, 2013, 10:06:31 am »
I'm off to Snowdonia this afternoon planning to do the groved arete on Tryfan tomorrow if its dry.


Offline DJBrenton

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #16 on: October 11, 2013, 12:04:04 pm »
My claim to fame from that area is that I was one of the first to ice climb the Devil's Appendix. We were 3rd pair up after the first ascent.
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #17 on: October 11, 2013, 01:46:06 pm »
My claim to fame from that area is that I was one of the first to ice climb the Devil's Appendix. We were 3rd pair up after the first ascent.
Superb effort. Never managed to coordinate an attempt with my regular partners. Still time, though my 'steep ice courage' has dissipated somewhat over the past decade.

Offline Ronster

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #18 on: November 5, 2013, 02:33:19 pm »
Anyone else on here regularly rock climb?

This is a good topic. I like climbing, lived out in Cham for a year and back in the day have been twelve seasons in a row to the Alps. Family and work commitments mean i don't climb as much as i used to. This particular topic needs to be moved to its own place where everyone can keep an eye on it or it will become lost.
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Offline cashmere pringle

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #19 on: November 8, 2013, 01:16:29 pm »
oh the days in the 1980s i spent here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1057

Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #20 on: November 8, 2013, 06:09:17 pm »
I probably bumped into you there at some time, when home on leave. Somewhat less quiet in those days, it must be said. There, the Breck and Brownstones were my local haunts. Mostly wearing PA's; none of those fancy EB's ;-)

Offline Ronster

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #21 on: November 10, 2013, 10:39:24 am »
My claim to fame from that area is that I was one of the first to ice climb the Devil's Appendix. We were 3rd pair up after the first ascent.

We don't have the winters much anymore for these sorts of routes to form, freeze thaw freeze cycles. It's a pity i blame global warming.
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Offline "Stuart"

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2013, 09:32:54 pm »
Can't wait to get outside for a climb weather keeps scuppering plans

Offline Ronster

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #23 on: November 17, 2013, 10:40:37 am »
Can't wait to get outside for a climb weather keeps scuppering plans

How did you get on on that Grooved arete? Did you get it done?
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Offline "Stuart"

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #24 on: November 18, 2013, 12:29:13 pm »
How did you get on on that Grooved arete? Did you get it done?

Weather was awful so just messed around on little tryfan then went to the pass and did the wrinkle good climb

Offline Ronster

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #25 on: December 23, 2013, 02:57:43 pm »
Some good deposits of snow likely in Scotland over the next 48hrs. Hopefully this will be a nice bedding for the January freeze-thaw cycle. Once the ice forms need to ready to mobilise at a moments notice. Sharpen the axes.
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #26 on: December 23, 2013, 07:20:22 pm »
Looking forward to a few weekend trips to the highlands. Was on Helvellyn at the weekend, and it was bare, bar a few patches near Nethermost. Ground very moist!

Offline Ronster

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #27 on: January 3, 2014, 08:32:42 pm »
Looking forward to a few weekend trips to the highlands. Was on Helvellyn at the weekend, and it was bare, bar a few patches near Nethermost. Ground very moist!

Is that Helvellyn ridge any good with snow on Stevie?
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #28 on: January 3, 2014, 10:26:26 pm »
Do you mean Striding Edge mate? It is tricky under winter condition, though you can avoid most of the difficulties if needed. Definitely a crampons and axe route, and many do get caught out if ill prepared. It is a nice day if you ascend Striding and descend Swirral, though the exit/entry to the ridges can be difficult if a cornice builds. In winter, the ascent from Swirls is probably easiest, if not a bit steep. Winter kit, including hardware, always advised,

Offline "Stuart"

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #29 on: July 29, 2014, 03:22:40 pm »
Anyone been out much this summer? Was up at shepherds crag with the girl friend a couple of weeks ago and went to the RAC boulders last night for a boulder as was passing them. Hoping to get back to wales later in August for some multipitch with one of  my mates

Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #30 on: July 29, 2014, 04:36:20 pm »
Not a huge amount. Odd bits here and there, but it has been more a fell running summer for me. Off to the CIC for a weekend in September, and may try and hit one or two of the big Carn Dearg routes. Only ever done Goliath, so it will be interesting to see if the confidence of youth remains!

Offline kirkbywool

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #31 on: September 15, 2014, 11:11:00 pm »
Anyone know if you can join a club to go rock climbing? I have an awesome walls card from last year as was going to join with my mate but he decided it wasn't for him and I completely forgot about it to be honest until I rediscovered my card the other day. Used to do a bit when I was younger but that was a while ago.

Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2014, 06:52:20 am »
Anyone know if you can join a club to go rock climbing? I have an awesome walls card from last year as was going to join with my mate but he decided it wasn't for him and I completely forgot about it to be honest until I rediscovered my card the other day. Used to do a bit when I was younger but that was a while ago.

Mate, the most well regarded are the Vagabonds, Achille Ratti and Gwydr (cannot speak for any others, and I am sure others are excellent). I used to be a member of the Merseyside, but I think it is now defunct. Check out the club finder at http://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/?t=club#main Clubs tend to have an indoor night at Awesome Walls or NWF, with very regular weekends away. Tends to be a very nice environment to climb in, with people operating at all grade levels.

Offline kirkbywool

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2014, 07:53:38 am »
Mate, the most well regarded are the Vagabonds, Achille Ratti and Gwydr (cannot speak for any others, and I am sure others are excellent). I used to be a member of the Merseyside, but I think it is now defunct. Check out the club finder at http://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/?t=club#main Clubs tend to have an indoor night at Awesome Walls or NWF, with very regular weekends away. Tends to be a very nice environment to climb in, with people operating at all grade levels.

Thanks, I will look into that

Offline AndyInVA

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #34 on: September 22, 2014, 04:48:20 pm »
went to an indoor climbing center for the first time ever a couple of weekends ago

raining and wanting to do something different so went their with new girl friend

it was surprisingly good fun

the gym had self belay systems that had the rope on a light tension and pulled itself in as you went up

however it was really hard getting used to just jumping off the wall and the system catching you and lowering you down afterwards. your instinct is screaming at you to not jump and yet your brain tells you this is how you get down

Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #35 on: September 28, 2014, 04:48:19 pm »
Just back from a weekend at the CIC hut on Ben Nevis. Weather was bogging, with high winds and much rain. Climbing was out, but a lovely traverse of the Ben/CMD Arete.

Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #36 on: April 3, 2015, 08:40:52 pm »
Long weekend of climbing coming up.

Tomorrow - Chudliegh for possibly the best limestone crag in the South West, although a little polished.

Sunday - not sure yet, maybe Dartmoor for some tough crystal laced granite.

Monday - North Cornwall coast for some delicate technical slab climbing in a wild and rugged environment.
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #37 on: April 4, 2015, 08:55:24 am »
Monday - North Cornwall coast for some delicate technical slab climbing in a wild and rugged environment.

Cornakey is ace, enjoy. Took a mate for his first multi pitch in the lakes yesterday (Corvus). Wet, cold, slimy, big boots and sacks. No better apprenticeship for the lad  :)

Offline Sudden Death Draft Loser

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #38 on: April 4, 2015, 10:17:05 pm »
Cornakey is ace, enjoy. Took a mate for his first multi pitch in the lakes yesterday (Corvus). Wet, cold, slimy, big boots and sacks. No better apprenticeship for the lad  :)

Already done Wrecker's Slab twice, great adventure. Am off to some new (for me) crags, Moped Zawn, Hippa Rock, Oldwells Point
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Offline Stevie-A

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Re: Rock climbing
« Reply #39 on: April 5, 2015, 08:53:06 am »
Sounds cracking. Enjoy it. I have a two night wild camp with my daughter planned, so may not get back on the rock for a few weeks!